Savoring a Heritage of Flavors Through “RM Surya Tak Pernah Tenggelam”
Designers: Dzulfiqar Nainggolan and Joey Fong (The 1984)
Scope: Publication
Publisher: Binatang Press
Nestled in the Bendungan Hilir (Benhil) neighborhood of Central Jakarta, RM Surya has long been more than just a place to eat–it’s a home of memories. For decades, this Padang restaurant has served traditional Minang cuisine and stories of dedication from its founders and kitchen crew, who have devoted their lives to crafting meals rich in warmth and heart. RM Surya has stood witness to Jakarta’s transformation, quietly present through celebrations and hardships alike. Its kitchen never stopped stirring. That is why the legacy of RM Surya deserves to be preserved, not only in fleeting recollections but also in physical form–one that can be passed down and relived by future generations.
At the end of April, Binatang Press released RM Surya Tak Pernah Tenggelam (Eng: RM Surya Never Sinks), a “documentary” in book form that captures the spirit of this iconic eatery. Designed by Dzulfiqar Nainggolan and Joey Fong from The 1984, and brought to life with illustrations by Nugraha Pratama, the book is a collaborative project between Dokumentaria Berselera and Binatang Press. The contents were written by Reno Andam Suri, with photographs by Jeremiah Michael. Through this publication, readers are invited to explore RM Surya’s deeper layers, from its founding story and signature dishes to the figures who bring the kitchen to life. Though centered on a restaurant, this book offers more than culinary history; it speaks of heritage and hope, kinship and love, all built on years of sweat and dedication.
From the moment you hold RM Surya Tak Pernah Tenggelam, its design invites you in, reminiscent of a menu in a well-loved eatery. Page by page, the book is full of vibrant colors, evoking both contemporary tastes and the colors found in RM Surya’s interior: orange, blush pink, green, pale yellow, and sky blue. This palette, drawn from wall paints, tableware, guestbooks, furniture, and even napkins found in the restaurant, feels instantly familiar. The color choices do more than decorate–they transport; readers are gently ushered into the dining room, immersed in its warmth, waiting for a meal that tells stories of home.
As a printed “documentary,” RM Surya Tak Pernah Tenggelam offers a rich visual journey. Jeremiah Michael’s evocative photographs and dynamic layouts invite the reader to experience every narrative as though seated at the table themselves. Each frame, bordered in vibrant graphic elements, brings a youthful energy, like a playful garnish that entices readers to linger longer on each page.
Another essential ingredient in the book is the illustration work by Nugraha Pratama. Through a human-centered lens, Nugraha captures both historic milestones and everyday moments at RM Surya with tenderness, such as scenes of staff carefully blending spices in the kitchen. His brushstrokes and paint textures gently blur like memories themselves–slightly faded, yet warm. One particular illustration, found near the end, depicts RM Surya’s dishes in full glory, a closing note that’s as clever as it is mouthwatering, leaving readers longing for a taste.
Typographically, using Tuppence by Delve Fonts adds another thoughtful layer to the design. The font’s sharp points and triangular elements subtly reference the traditional Rumah Gadang–the iconic Minangkabau house from West Sumatra, homeland of RM Surya’s founders. Tuppence’s firm yet graceful curves represent the beauty of songket, the textile of Minang culture. The designers’ choice of this typeface reinforces that the book is not just a tribute to a restaurant, but also to the cultural roots from which it emerged–roots that continue to be honored to this day.
RM Surya Tak Pernah Tenggelam is a hope, a prayer that this beloved, family-run restaurant continues to thrive for years to come. Its design and visual elements are not merely packaging, but an embodiment of flavor and memory. To read this book is to feel a deeply embodied experience of food, of place, of love.
RM Surya Tak Pernah Tenggelam is available at Binatang Press.
